Will 40w Oil Fix Ticking Sound In 97 Rodeo
| CommonLogic 3 edits | 2006-Apr-30 3:45 pm I Go an Engine Ticking Sound After Oil Modify. Please Aid!About two weeks ago, I was driving effectually in the metropolis with little to no oil. The check engine calorie-free was on but I thought dingy sensors had to exist replaced. Sadly, while stuck in traffic the engine made a woofing / echoing audio. This would go on for about two to five minutes; stall and so it would close off. The same day I took information technology in to take an oil change. The mechanic recommend that I become the engine flushed but didn't considering it cost about 1 hundred dollars Before that the engine was silent and pleasant. You would barely feel it on. I've driven 1,100 miles since the oil change. Now, I hear a ticking audio when the car is in park or it's in reverse, like the sound of a rollercoaster being pulled on pinnacle of its track. This never happened. An employee at AutoZone told me the catalytic converter / estrus shield could be loose or worn out. What kind of damage do you call up I've caused? What exercise you think I should do? Do you lot think that I should have the engine flushed? Whatever suggestions would be appreciated. TIA! |
| | 2006-Apr-thirty 4:02 pm make/model/year/miles, pleaseProbably nil more a noisy valve lifter. Shame on you for driving that car, knowing there was no oil in the crankcase; that'south a death wish for any engine! I'll reserve sentence on the flush until you respond with more than details. |
| CommonLogic 1 edit | Thanks for y'all fast respond. V6, 97 Ford Contour with 71053 miles. |
| | 2006-April-30 4:37 pm Running the engine out of oil will make whetever oil is left in in that location drasticaly overheat. Overheated oil will form sludge and varnish very chop-chop, so it's probably gunked upwardly the small passages in the lifters, making them "viscous". You might attempt a can of Bardahl, or some Curiosity Mystery Oil, or have the flush washed by your mechanic. |
| CommonLogic | said by drjim: You might endeavour a tin can of Bardahl, or some Marvel Mystery Oil, or have the flush done by your mechanic. What kind of Bardahl exercise you recommend? The "Engine Tune Upwardly and Affluent" or the "Oil Additives" |
| | to CommonLogic Re: I Go an Engine Ticking Sound After Oil Change. Please Assistance!Add Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase. Y'all accept a lifter or tappet valve clicking. Hopefully information technology's not permanently damaged and the additive will clean it/free it. Regards, Doctor Olds |
| CommonLogic | I found Curiosity Mystery Oil for effectually xx bucks. The clicking sound occurs initially when you first the car or have off within one to 2 minutes. After that information technology stops. |
| | 2006-Apr-thirty v:21 pm It'due south probably got a gunked up lifter. It takes a few minutes/miles for the oil to get into the lifter and pump it up enough to take out the clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe. |
| CommonLogic | Hopefully Marvel Mystery Oil will do the task. |
| | to CommonLogic What does my oil actually do? An engine oil's chore is primarily to stop all the metal surfaces in your engine from grinding together and tearing themselves autonomously from friction, and dissipating the heat generated from this process. It also transfers rut away from the combustion bike and must be able to agree in break the nasty by-products of fuel combustion, such as silica (silicon oxide) and acids. It cleans the engine of such chemicals and buildups, and keeps the moving parts coated in oil. Doing this helps minimise exposure to oxygen and thus oxidation at college temperatures. It does all of these things under tremendous oestrus and pressure level and for the most office without succumbing to fatigue or black death, the ultimate engine destroyer »www.carbibles.com/engine ··· bible.ht |
| | to CommonLogic If Marvel doesnt do it, put a can of Sea Foam in the crankcase (follow directions on tin can for ammount into the crank example), run the engine for xxx minutes or and then or have a 20-30 mile bulldoze, and then exercise a oil change. That should solve your problem. |
| | to CommonLogic said by CommonLogic: I found Curiosity Mystery Oil for around twenty bucks. The clicking audio occurs initially when you start the car or take off within 1 to 2 minutes. Later on that it stops. $twenty.00 is style too high. MYSTERY OIL, 32 OZ. One other thing. Make sure the right oil filter is on the motorcar. If information technology needs a anti-drain-back valve and the filter is missing it you will starve the engine on start up. Regards, Doc Olds |
| 1 edit | to CommonLogic For the purpose of clarity, I believe Doctor Olds may accept been suggesting one pint or quart of Marvel Mystery oil added to the crankcase, forth with 3 or and then quarts of conventional oil. I don't think you lot would want to fill up the entire engine oil capacity with Marvel, unless yous were to drain information technology off and replace information technology with conventional oil prior to on highway use. The odds are good that this engine will now begin to employ a lot of oil. Better bank check the oil at to the lowest degree weekly or more than oftentimes until you lot know what's up. |
| | said past Grumpy4: For the purpose of clarity, I believe Doctor Olds may take been suggesting one pint or quart of Marvel Mystery oil added to the crankcase, forth with 3 or and then quarts of conventional oil. I don't think y'all would desire to fill the entire engine oil capacity with Marvel, unless you were to bleed it off and replace it with conventional oil prior to on highway utilise. Correct! Use it to replace a pint/quart of oil, but not as the sole lubricant. Follow instructions on the bottle/can. ADDED TO GASOLINE: Cleans and lubricates fuel injectors and carburetors. Improves gasoline mileage. Reduces and prevents varnish and gum build-up. Extends spark plug life. Safe for catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. ADDED TO ENGINE OIL: Prevents valve sticking and clatter. Fortifies properties of engine oil, prevents breakdown caused by farthermost temperatures. Promotes easier cold weather starts. Reduces and prevents acid and sludge formation. Regards, Doctor Olds |
| to CommonLogic I might have written the thread title differently. "I get an Engine Ticking Racket After Driving with Little to No Oil" The matter to remember is that an oil change shouldn't be looked at as a repair. An oil change is preventative maintenance. If the cause of the stalling was lack of oil, so you lot likely have issues worse than a gummy lifter. I hope it works out for you lot, merely I would make sure that the battery in your cell phone is fully charged in the mean fourth dimension. | |
| 1 edit | to CommonLogic And your screen name is "CommonLogic?" I had the problem not to long agone on my truck of the catalytic converter being plugged upwards. Check engine light came on. Hopefully, although if your luck is like mine it won't help, the oil additive trick will piece of work for you. |
| Sorry, but information technology does seem similar a ...Southward H O R T B 50 O C 1000... is what you will be needing. | |
| | to CommonLogic CommonLogic lol! the mutual logic when a check engine light comes on is to read the code and remedy it, not drive effectually. The common logic when you lot know you have no oil in the machine is to fill up it up! Check oil level on a daily-weekly basis depending on how fast your car burns your oil, never let it go below the full level. Y'all must have constant oil pressure in the vehicle at all times. Hope you learnt your lesson, inexpensive out one way, it will come haunt you another way. I'm lamentable to accept to be so bold similar that, only y'all sound like a person who knows about cars enough to know that a motorcar with no oil = dieing, it doesnt matter if its a POS Ford or a high end BMW, your life is in that car when the wheels are spinning, care for her well. |
| | to CommonLogic That ticking noise could be coming from a bad bearing. I once had a machine with a bad bearing. I took off the oil pan to expose the underneath of the master crank and could see all the rods from underneath attached to the principal crank. I then jiggled each. One of them slopped around a little bit. There are two bolts that agree this rod to the main creepo. Inside, the bearings are shaped kind of like ID bracelets, ane on top and bottom. These tin be replaced. I didn't take any dissonance like that again. This was a long fourth dimension ago when I was a teenage and purchased a used car. Good luck. |
| CommonLogic ane edit | to Doctor Olds Thanks Medico for the quote. |
| | to Cho Baka said past Cho Baka: I might have written the thread championship differently. "I go an Engine Ticking Noise After Driving with Trivial to No Oil" I tin can't alter the thread title now but thanks for the proffer. I'll try to make it apparent next time. |
| | to cork1958 said by cork1958: And your screen name is "CommonLogic?" Shame on me |
| | to CommonLogic What weight of oil did they put back in it? I have a 1996 Plymouth Neon. I take had it for a number of years. Information technology has made some noise the unabridged fourth dimension I accept had it. I don't know if it is a stuck lifter or a complanate piston skirt or something else. I oasis't tore it apart to explore. If I run it with xxx weight oil, the noise is a lot WORSE than if I run it with 20 weight oil. I figger in that location is some passage that is some blocked and the lighter weight oil can get through the passage easier. I'yard just saying you might play with unlike weight oil to run into if the noise is more or less... |
| CommonLogic | to mau108 said past mau108: CommonLogic lol! the mutual logic when a check engine light comes on is to read the code and remedy it, non drive around. Lol! I'll take this practical approach next time |
| moonpuppy (banned) | to CommonLogic said past CommonLogic: Do you think that I should have the engine flushed? For the love of God, DON'T Go THE ENGINE FLUSHED!!!!!!!!!! You will destroy all the old seals in your engine. Equally you car gets older, using regular dino oil (non synthetic), some of oil deposits itself around seals. This helps the engine not leak. When y'all flush an engine, it removes all of that gunk that was sealing your engine and moves it around. This tin clog up the oil passages, the oil pickup, the oil pump, etc. Plus, it destroys the former seals so you could exist having more than leaks than earlier. |
| | 2006-May-i 10:25 am said by moonpuppy: said by CommonLogic: Do you lot think that I should have the engine flushed? For the love of God, DON'T Become THE ENGINE FLUSHED!!!!!!!!!! You volition destroy all the old seals in your engine. As you motorcar gets older, using regular dino oil (not constructed), some of oil deposits itself effectually seals. This helps the engine non leak. When yous flush an engine, information technology removes all of that gunk that was sealing your engine and moves it around. This can clog up the oil passages, the oil pickup, the oil pump, etc. Plus, it destroys the old seals and so you could be having more leaks than before. Flushing an engine DOES Not destroy engine seals. The only possible implication to practice with engine seals would be the removal of deposits that have clogged a leak on a leaking seal. |
| ane edit | to CommonLogic i have used Marvs Mystery Oil for years. good stuff. some other old school trick is if information technology starts ticking, pour a small amount of Automatic Manual fluid in the oil too. its all virtually viscosity. |
| krewl1 | to CommonLogic I have used autorx with good results with sticky lifters. I had read near it at bobistheoilguy dot com in the additives thread. It is a trivial pricey but found information technology worth it. |
| haertig | to CommonLogic I ran out of oil in one case. Just before a trip, took the thing in for a cheque-upward and oil change at a repair shop. '72 Nova. Got a few hundred miles on the trip and the Check Oil light came on. I had the clutch in and engine turned off inside a second or two, and coasted myself to a finish. Checked the dipstick - dry. I had spare oil in the trunk and put in the three or iv quarts I had and limped into the side by side town, about ten miles, and filled it up the rest of the way. It apparently had leaked out around a bad or ill-fitting oil filter. I replaced that too. I besides bought another case of oil and put that in the trunk. Good thing too, I had to add together some other quart near every 150 miles after this incident. I learned my lesson. I was 17 years former then. I eventually had to replace the engine. |
| | to rob_in_chatt said past rob_in_chatt: i have used Marvs Mystery Oil for years. good stuff. another former school play a joke on is if information technology starts ticking, pour a small-scale corporeality of Automatic Transmission fluid in the oil too. its all about viscosity. The very last argument is incorrect. You want to know why ATF and Curiosity Mystery Oil piece of work then well? They are both loftier in detergent additives (cleaners) that they help make clean out sticking lifters which take tiny oil holes that are sometimes blocked by oil gunk/carbon deposits. Marvel Mystery Oil is a highly refined oil with additives package and is then good it is used to lubricate the air tools professional person mechanics employ every solar day due to it superior cleaning and lubing properties. If yous await at Snap On and MAC Tools air tool oil it is repacked Marvel Mystery Oil. Regards, Doctor Olds |
Will 40w Oil Fix Ticking Sound In 97 Rodeo,
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